Ruffage: A Practical Guide to Vegetables
By Abra Berens
Photography: E.E. Berger
Chronicle Books, 2019
Publisher Description
Author Abra Berens—chef, farmer, Midwesterner—shares a collection of techniques that result in new flavors, textures, and ways to enjoy all the vegetables you want to eat.
From confit to caramelized and everything in between—braised, blistered, roasted and raw—the cooking methods covered here make this cookbook a go-to reference. You will never look at vegetables the same way again.
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Recipes
Asparagus
- Pan Roasted: Asparagus Stalks with Anchovy-Caper Butter and Fresh Herbs
- Grilled: Asparagus with Smoked Whitefish, Pea Shoots, and Mushrooms
- Raw: Salad of Asparagus, Arugula, Egg, and Radish with Mustard Vinaigrette
Beets
- Steam Roasted: Beets with Smoked Whitefish, Sour Cream, and Dill
- Puréed: Beet-Dressed Pasta with Golden Raisins and Poppy Seeds
Broccoli
- Raw: Broccoli Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, Sunflower Seeds, and Dried Cherries
- Oven Roasted: Broccoli with Melty Cheese and Chili Oil
- Quick Steamed: Bright Green Broccoli with Seared Whitefish and Lemon Butter
Cabbage
- Raw: Shaved Cabbage Salad with Chili Oil, Cilantro, and Charred Melon
- Roasted/Grilled: Seared Duck Breast with Brown Sugar-Vinegar Cabbage, Roasted Potatoes, and Herb Salad
Carrots
- Raw: Carrot Salad with Yogurt, Pickled Raisins, and Pistachios
- Oven Roasted: Carrots with Spicy Apricot Jam, Mint, and Almonds
Cauliflower
- Raw: Shaved Cauliflower Salad with Smoked Whitefish Mayo, Lemon, Radicchio, and Herbs
- Oven Roasted: Cauliflower with Roasted Tomatoes, Parsley, and Bread Crumbs
- Puréed: Cauliflower Purée Topped with Seared Pork Cutlet
Celery and Celery Root
- Raw: Celery Root Salad with Lentils and Bagna Cauda
- Puréed: Celery Root Purée Topped with Seared Chicken Thigh and Green Salad
- Raw: Celery Stalk Salad with Grapes, Apples, Goat Cheese, and Pecans
- Braised: Braised Stalk Celery
Corn
- Grilled: Grilled Corn on the Cob with Parmesan Butter
- Roasted: Corn Kernel Salad with Soybeans, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil
- Puréed: Cream-Less Corn with Sautéed Greens and Seared Salmon
Cucumbers
- Raw: Cucumber Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, Parsley Oil, and Cottage Cheese
- Blistered: Cucumber with Cumin Yogurt and Parsley
Eggplant
- Braised: Stewy Eggplant and Tomato Coddled Eggs
- Oven Roasted: Crispy Eggplant with Fresh Mozzarella, Tomatoes, Pickled Raisins, and Mint
- Puréed: Smoky Eggplant Pasta with Pounded Walnut Relish, Mozzarella, and Basil
Fennel
- Raw: Shaved Fennel Salad with Apricots, Chili Oil, Parsley, Mint, and Lamb Chops
- Braised: Braised Fennel
Garlic
- Raw: Grilled Pork Chops with Garlic and Kale Relish
- Sautéed: Garlic and Spinach Pasta
- Confit: Garlic Confit
- Confit: Garlic Marinated White Beans with Celery and Parsley Salad
Green Beans
- Pan Roasted: Blistered Green Beans with Tomateos, Pounded Walnuts, and Raw Summer Squash
- Grilled: Charred Green Beans with Crispy Chickpeas and Curry Yogurt
- Braised: Green Beans with Tomatoes, Lentils and Onions
Greens, Delicate: Arugula, Leaf Lettuce, Head Lettuce, Spinach, Baby Bok Choy
- Raw: Perfect Salad
- Braised: Braised Lettuce
- Grilled: Charred Whole Romaine with Hard-Boiled Egg, Anchovy Vinaigrette, and Garlic Bread Crumbs
Greens, Hearty: Chard, Collards, Kale, Radicchio and Other Chicories
- Raw: Massaged Kale with Tomatoes, Creamed Mozzarella, and Wild Rice
- Sautéed: Sautéed Greens with Garlic and Chili Flakes
- Braised: Braised Kale with Jowl Bacon, Onions, and Parsley
- Oven Roasted: Oven-Roasted Kale Chips with Grated Raclette
Kohlrabi
- Baked: Kohlrabi Potato Gratin
- Raw: Kohl-Slaw with Apples, Black Lentils, Sherry Vinaigrette, and Seared Salmon
Leeks
- Raw: Marinated Leek Salad with Wheat Berries, Carrots, and Seared Salmon
- Braised: Slow-Cooked Leeks with Thyme and Cream
Onions
- Raw: Shaved Onion Salad with Cucumber, Yogurt, and Mint over Lamb Chops
- Braised: Vinegar-Braised Onions with Seared Whitefish and Arugula
- Caramelized: Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Toasts
Parsnips
- Oven Roasted: Roasted Parsnips with Fresh Goat Cheese, Pecans, and Pickled Apricots
- Puréed: Parsnip Purée with Duck Breast, Radicchio, and Cranberry Relish
Peas
- Marinated: Marinated Peas with Yesterday’s Roast Chicken, Baby Onions, and Lettuce
- Puréed: Sweet Pea Toasts
- Pan Roasted: Peas with Parsley, Thyme, Butter, and Onions
Peppers, Sweet
- Grilled: Grilled Peppers with Eggplant and Tomato over Couscous
- Braised: Peperonata with Poached Eggs and Paprika Potatoes
Potatoes
- Boiled: Simple Boiled Potatoes with Sweet Butter and Herbs
- Oven Roasted: Roasted Potato Salad with Egg, Celery, Herbs, and Bread Crumbs
- Braised: Mustard Braised Potatoes with Chicken Thighs
- Baked: Jacket Potatoes with Shaved Vegetable Salad and Tuna Mayo
Radishes
- Pan Roasted: Roasted Radishes with Their Greens and White Wine
- Raw: Radish Wedges with Bagna Cauda
- Poached: Poached Radishes with White Wine, Chicken Stock, and Butter
Ramps
- Raw: Ramp Pesto with Seared Chicken, Radish, and Bread Salad
- Grilled: Grilled Ramps with Parsley, Walnuts, and Hard-Boiled Egg
- Sautéed: Sautéed Ramps with Morels, Spinach, and Cream on Toast
Squash, Summer
- Raw: Shaved Summer Squash with Parmesan, Lots and Lots of Herbs, and Olive Oil
- Grilled: Grilled Zucchini Planks with White Beans, Olive Oil, and Rosemary
- Marinated: Summer Squash Escabèche with Mushrooms, Arugula, and Steak
Squash, Winter
- Pan Roasted: Delicata Squash with Dukkah, Ricotta, and Dried Cherries
- Oven Roasted: Winter Squash and Brown Butter Purée
Sunchokes
- Raw: Shaved Sunchokes with Mustard Vinaigrette and Parsley
- Puréed: Sunchoke Purée with Cream and White Wine
- Oven Roasted: Roasted Sunchokes with Massaged Kale and Brown Butter Vinaigrette
- Braised: Braised Sunchokes with Almonds, Cream, Sherry, Parsley, and Duck Breast
Tomatoes
- Raw: Tomato Panzanella with Corn, Cucumbers, and Herb Salad
- Stuffed: Tomatoes Stuffed with Lentils and Goat Cheese
- Oven Roasted: Oven-Roasted Tomatoes
Turnips and Rutabaga
- Raw: Matchstick Salad: Turnip, Carrots, Kohlrabi, with Lemon, Parmesan, and Parsley
- Oven Roasted: Roasted Turnip, Apple, Rosemary, with Pork Loin and Spinach
- Braised: Turnip and Potato Mash with Chicken Leg, Orange, Vanilla Vinaigrette, and Radicchio